Jennie
finished the first quilt she made in the Marti & Me Club. The club is
taught by Dena and features tips and techniques for accurate piecing using
rulers and templates by Marti Michel. Looks like Jennie followed the lessons
well – what a beautiful quilt!
Sunday, May 04, 2014
Friday, May 02, 2014
And there is MORE....
Show and Tell #4!. No I am not kidding. We had snow and ice storms, remember?
Eleanor and her friend both went
on a retreat to John C. Campbell Folk School. Eleanor had fun making the
Carpenter’s Star Quilt and her friend, Flo made a gorgeous beaded bracelet.
Sondra made this 90” x 108” T-shirt quilt
top in one week! Her mother is retiring after 30 years of teaching and Sondra
made this to surprise her. I’ll bet there will be a few tears shed over this
gift from the heart.
Susan made this beautiful tumbler
quilt from a kit from Primitive Gatherings. The backing was made from fabric
from her stash and left-over tumbler blocks. Gorgeous!
Thursday, May 01, 2014
Patchwork of the Crosses
Thank you to all who
have commented, called, or stopped by the shop to let me know how much you’re
enjoying this “Blog Along”. I’m just
blown away by the huge response and very much appreciate all the positive
feedback! I personally, find making the
blocks addictive, and it sounds like a lot of you are having as much fun as I
am. If you’re new, the Patchwork of the Crosses
blog posts started on April 3, 2014, and continue to be posted every Thursday. Check out older posts for tutorials, tips,
techniques, and pictures of my progress on making this beautiful quilt. It’s not too late to get started!
Many of you have
asked about pre-washing the fabrics for this quilt. There are several schools of thought on
prewashing with advantages and disadvantages to both. As you know, cotton fabric will shrink and,
while it’s not a great amount, not all of it shrinks the same. Because this quilt uses small amounts of a
lot of different fabrics, it seems like it would be a good idea to prewash just
to avoid the problem of uneven shrinkage once the quilt is finished. Prewashing will also alert you to any fabrics
that are not colorfast.
Some people prefer
not to prewash because they simply don’t like to deal with all the fraying that
occurs in the washer no matter how gentle the wash cycle. Also, pressing all the prewashed fabric is
not the most fun part of making the quilt! Waiting to wash the fabrics after the quilt is finished means that
the shrinkage occurs at the end of the process resulting in the fabric
puckering up around the quilting stitches giving it an “old-timey” look that
our grandmother’s quilts had. Another big
advantage of not prewashing is that the sizing remains in the fabric giving you
nice crisp fabric to work with. The
crispness makes cutting easier with clean, smooth edges on your shapes.
So the choice is
yours! Should you decide to prewash,
fabrics should be washed the way you intend to wash the finished quilt.
Adding Retayne (available in the shop) to the wash water will set the dyes to prevent bleeding. Color Catchers (made by Shout and available on the laundry aisle of the grocery store) will absorb loose dyes floating in the wash water so they won’t deposit on your fabric – I recommend using these whenever you wash a quilt.
When pressing prewashed fabrics, I like to use Mary Ellen’s Best Press which adds the sizing back to the fabric – it’s not starch, but a starch alternative that comes in several different delightful scents (also available unscented) that makes the pressing process much more enjoyable! Did I really just say that about pressing? You have to try it to believe it! Call the shop to order.
Adding Retayne (available in the shop) to the wash water will set the dyes to prevent bleeding. Color Catchers (made by Shout and available on the laundry aisle of the grocery store) will absorb loose dyes floating in the wash water so they won’t deposit on your fabric – I recommend using these whenever you wash a quilt.
When pressing prewashed fabrics, I like to use Mary Ellen’s Best Press which adds the sizing back to the fabric – it’s not starch, but a starch alternative that comes in several different delightful scents (also available unscented) that makes the pressing process much more enjoyable! Did I really just say that about pressing? You have to try it to believe it! Call the shop to order.
We received a
beautiful book in the shop this week you might be interested in! Imported from England where the book was
written by Lucy Boston’s daughter-in-law, Diana Boston, “The Patchworks of Lucy
Boston” is a fascinating look at all the quilts made by Lucy Boston. There are no patterns in the book, but there
are whole pictures of each quilt exquisitely photographed by professional
photographer Julia Hedgecoe and accompanied by details of each quilt along with
interesting stories about the inspiration for the project and how fabrics were
obtained to make some of the quilts during wartime England. Extracts from Lucy Boston’s letters and
writings, a biography, and pictures of some of the rooms from the Manor at
Hemingsford Way where Lucy lived make this a book you will enjoy from the first
page to the last. A limited number of
the books are available on our website (www.littlequilts.com) or in the shop.
Join me next week
when we’ll be making another block.
Don’t forget to check out Inklingo if you’re
planning to hand piece your blocks. Even
if you’re planning on using the English Paper Piecing method I’m using, you may
want to consider Inklingo for printing your paper shapes.
Happy
Stitching!
Sunday, April 27, 2014
Second Saturday Sampler Show and Tell Part 3
Part THREE!!!? are you kidding me? Our customers are sewing for sure. Check it out.
We love to see all the creative quilts from our customers! This quilt looks like a lot of work to make, but is surprisingly quick and easy with the Disappearing Nine-Patch pattern.
Hexagons and English Paper Piecing are so popular right now. What a creative
use for just a few hexagon flowers that were made into a sewing
kit.
Julie brought this beauty to show at Second Saturday Sampler. She bought the
fabric and pattern on a trip to Wyoming. She liked the pattern so much she used
it to set her Second Saturday blocks last year. Pattern is BQ3 by Maple Island
Quilts.
We love to see all the creative quilts from our customers! This quilt looks like a lot of work to make, but is surprisingly quick and easy with the Disappearing Nine-Patch pattern.
One of our customers shared a special hand-made birthday greeting from her
grand-child. Looks like the whole family knows where Grandma likes to hang
out! That takes the word "custom" to a whole new level.
Friday, April 25, 2014
Saturday Sampler Show and Tell part 2
We are so lucky to see what our customers are making.. Not to mention how great they are.
It’s so much fun making and using unique bags and totes. Donna found this
pattern for a really easy “Grab Bag” in a quilting magazine (she thinks it was
in the Quilts & More magazine).
Madelyn added a touch of red to all of last year’s black and white Second
Saturday Sampler alternate blocks. She knew from the start she was going to
make the quilt in school colors for her grand-daughter who is attending Davidson College. Great quilt,
Madelyn!
Thursday, April 24, 2014
Patchwork of the Crosses
Today we’ll begin stitching, so start threading those
needles! (If you're joining us for the first time, you might want to review our earlier posts - this Blog Along started on April 3 and posts every Thursday). By now, you should have all twenty-four
honeycomb shapes glue basted and ready to go.
Arrange your blocks as follows:
Start in the center with four floral honeycombs that will
make the cross.
Add brown honeycombs for the four diagonals,
and finally, add the floral side and brown corner units.
Since this is basically a two-color block, it’s an easy
block to lay out without having to audition for color placement.
For stitching, I use a milliner’s needle and Aurifil
thread. Milliner’s needles (sometimes
called straw needles) are long fine needles that make it easy to “feel” the
edge of the papers in the basted shapes while you are stitching your units
together. I like to use Aurifil thread
because it is a strong thread, but fine enough to thread through the small eye
of the milliner’s needles. You can use
any neutral color thread as you won’t be able to see the stitches on the
front. ( For photographing purposes
only, I will be stitching with a lighter thread than is shown – I’m hoping
you’ll be able to see the stitches better!)
If you have trouble threading the milliner’s needle, you
may prefer switching to Sharps needles - they have a bigger eye to thread, but
the bigger shaft makes it more difficult to avoid catching the edges of the
papers when stitching. For a nice
compromise, you might want to try the Black Gold needles we sell in the shop
that are applique needles, but with a slightly larger eye – a nice cross
between milliner’s and sharps. Call the
shop to order.
You are now ready
to start stitching. I start stitching from the center units and work out. Place two of the units right sides together
and, with knotted thread, begin stitching right at the corner. If you don’t start and stop your stitching
right at the corners, you will end up with small “holes” or gaps at the
intersections of your blocks that are difficult to fix later.
If it’s awkward to hold everything together while you’re
stitching and you feel like you need another pair of hands, try using a
plastic-coated paper clip to hold the shapes together. The paper clip won’t get in the way and catch
your thread and the plastic coating slides on and off the fabric easily without
catching.
For stitching, I use a simple whip stitch. With your needle, you should be able to feel
the papers inside the basted shapes. Do
not stitch through the papers – simply grab a few threads on top of the folded
edges. Taking too deep a stitch will
result in threads showing on the right side of your work.
You will notice that my whip stitches are very close
together. This makes a tight seam that
will last forever! Caution: If you make an error, tight stitching is very difficult to remove without damaging the fabric.
If you are worried about this, simply make bigger stitches.
The most common errors made during stitching are:
1)
taking too deep a stitch in which case your
stitches will show on the right side of the work. If this happens, you either need to remove
the stitching and start over, o r leave the stitching and mark
over it with a Micron pen that closely matches the fabric color. This actually works very well and masks the
threads nicely. (I’m giving away all my
secrets here!)
2)
Make sure
you stitch the shapes together properly.
On the honeycomb shape, all the sides are 1”, but the angles are
different. If you sew the wrong sides
together, your shapes will end up at odd angles that won’t fit in the
block. I have no secrets to share with
you here – there’s nothing to do, in this case, but remove the stitching and
start over.
Because it’s easy to make mistakes that may need to be undone, I knot my thread at the end of each edge I stitch. That way, if I need to “unstitch,” I can simply remove one edge of stitching without worrying about other edges I've stitched with that thread coming undone. To make an easy knot at the end of a row, pull up a loop, run the needle through the loop twice and pull tight. You don’t need to cut your thread after you knot – simply continue stitching along the next edge with the same thread.
As soon as you’ve stitched around all six edges of a
shape, remove the paper. Removing the
papers will make your work more “flexible” so you can stitch the next units on
without bending the papers. If you
punched holes in the center of your papers, simply insert tweezers in the holes
and the papers should pop right out.
If you used too much glue, you may need to loosen the edges
by running the toe of the tweezers under the edges of the fabric. For those of you who purchased the Lucy
Boston Starter Pack from us, the Fashionista tweezers in your pack are perfect
for this because they have long toes.
Once the papers are loosened, they should pop right out.
Papers that have been removed are reusable. In fact, if
you haven’t bent the papers or stitched through them causing a frayed edge, you
should get five or six uses out of each paper.
The SewLine glue pen leaves no sticky residue on the papers, so they can
be slipped right back into your bag of paper shapes with no gummy mess.
And that’s all there is to it! Stitch all twenty-four honeycombs together
and you will have your first finished block! Look at the back of the block – if done
correctly, all the papers should be removed from the center honeycombs, but
papers will still remain on the outer row.
Now look at the front of the block – if done correctly, you should see
no stitches and no gaps or holes at the intersection points.
If you’re hand piecing your blocks, check out Inklingo here to find out about printing precise sewing/cutting lines right onto your fabric with an inkjet printer. Or, review the hand piecing information in the “Lucy Boston Patchwork of
the Crosses” book for pertinent tips and techniques.
If you are on Pinterest, you may want to follow our “Patchwork of the Crosses” board where I’ll be posting all my blocks and also adding blocks our customers bring in to show us. Looking at blocks completed by others will give your own creativity a boost. If you create some of your own blocks from your fabric stash, send me pictures so I can add them to our board as well! Check out our Pinterest board here.
Happy Stitching!
Wednesday, April 23, 2014
Show and Tell A Mania pt 1
COn Second Saturday Sampler Saturdays, we have something like a "parking lot" show and tell. We hate for those of you who cannot be here to miss out so...SHOW and TELL (pt 1)
Carol made a beautiful version of Judy Niemeyer’s pattern “Misty Mountain
Pond”. The original was done in blues and purples, but we love the brightness
of the colors Carol chose.
For baby #2 she made the cutest owl row quilt using a quilt as you go technique. So cute, and almost finished!
Danita found an old doll cradle at an antique store – all it needed was a quilt
to go with it. Danita made this reproduction doll quilt from one of our cigar
box doll bed kits. The antique look of the quilt will be great with her
cradle.
Sunday, April 20, 2014
Sue Spargo in East Cobb - part 2
Sue brought some of her Circle samplers to show many of her
stitches.
Sue’s quilts are absolutely stunning with the bright wool
background colors, the layers of wool appliqué and the beautiful embroidery
work. These are just a few of the beautiful quilt patterns available in her
books.
Friday, April 18, 2014
We got to learn from Sue Spargo - live and in person
Sue Spargo was the guest lecturer at the East Cobb Quilters’ Guild in
March. While she was here she taught several classes which many of us
attended. For those of you who were unable to attend, we thought you might like
to see some of Sue’s quilts and some of the projects from the classes she
taught.
Mary Ellen took the leaf class and is getting an up close look at Sue’s
stitching technique. Sue has a wonderful book called “Creative Stitches” that
includes clear, concise directions and illustrations for many of her stitches.
These are samples from the “Leaves” workshop. For this class, students were
to baste leaves to the background wool and bring it to class to practice the
stitches Sue was teaching – a leaf sampler project, so to
speak.
Thursday, April 17, 2014
Patchwork of the Crosses
This week we'll start working on the first block. Here is my block - we're starting with an easy one!
You will only need two fabrics for this block. Here are the fabrics I used:
Finding the perfect fabrics for these blocks is much of
the fun. There is an incredible variety available in shops today! As we get farther along, you
will discover that you begin to look at fabric differently when making your
choices. Stripes work especially well as do paisleys and floral prints. Search your stash and you will probably find many beautiful
high contrast fabrics that will work. As with all quilts, cotton fabric is recommended. Whether to prewash is a personal choice, but is recommended to check for color fastness and to avoid uneven shrinking of pieces later in the quilt's life.
If you prefer, you can purchase fabric packs that will include many of the fabrics I’m using in my blocks. Fabric packs include a combination of fat quarters or fat eighths totaling ¾ yd. in a variety of fabrics perfect for making POTC (Patchwork of the Crosses) blocks. They can be purchased on the Lucy Boston page of our web site (www.littlequilts.com) and they will be automatically shipped monthly, or you can purchase packs at the shop. (Please note: not all the fabrics I use will be included in the fabric packs – some of the fabrics are coming from my stash!)
If you prefer, you can purchase fabric packs that will include many of the fabrics I’m using in my blocks. Fabric packs include a combination of fat quarters or fat eighths totaling ¾ yd. in a variety of fabrics perfect for making POTC (Patchwork of the Crosses) blocks. They can be purchased on the Lucy Boston page of our web site (www.littlequilts.com) and they will be automatically shipped monthly, or you can purchase packs at the shop. (Please note: not all the fabrics I use will be included in the fabric packs – some of the fabrics are coming from my stash!)
Once you have selected the fabrics, use the acrylic
template and rotary cut twelve honeycomb shapes from each fabric. I used only the floral part of the stripe
fabric for this block, but save the remaining fabric – we will be using the
blue part of the stripe in another block.
Glue baste the shapes to the honeycomb papers using the
method described in last week’s tutorial.
Each block requires a total of twenty four honeycomb shapes.
Come back next week for another tutorial – I’ll be
showing you how to arrange and stitch your honeycombs together.
I’m sorry for all the problems with the link to Inklingo last week. Much as we love computers, they can be frustrating at times! We were finally able to complete the link, so if you’d like to check it out, click here to find out more about printing shapes that are ready for hand piecing right onto your fabric with an inkjet printer. Inklingo can also be used to print your own paper shapes. Free shapes are available on the Inklingo site if you’d like to try the technique before purchasing.
I’m sorry for all the problems with the link to Inklingo last week. Much as we love computers, they can be frustrating at times! We were finally able to complete the link, so if you’d like to check it out, click here to find out more about printing shapes that are ready for hand piecing right onto your fabric with an inkjet printer. Inklingo can also be used to print your own paper shapes. Free shapes are available on the Inklingo site if you’d like to try the technique before purchasing.
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